Gotoh 510 tremolos: what the letters and numbers mean
Gotoh's 510 tremolos are a popular upgrade for Strat-style guitars, but the model names look like a licence plate. EV510T-FE, 510TS-FE2, NS510T-FE1: every letter and number means something, and two of them decide whether the bridge will bolt onto your guitar at all. Here's how to read them, using Gotoh's own product listings.
Reading a model name
Take NS510TS-FE1 as an example. It splits into four parts: NS (string spacing), 510 (the series), TS (block type) and FE1 (saddles and mounting).
1. The prefix: string spacing and line
- No prefix (510T, 510TS): 10.8mm between strings, which works out at 54mm from low E to high E.
- NS (Narrow Spacing): 10.5mm between strings, 52.5mm from low E to high E.
- EV (EV510T, EV510TS): 10.8mm spacing, in a newer line Gotoh describe as built for function rather than vintage looks, with a chromium molybdenum steel plate and a low-clearance arm system. Gotoh don't say what EV stands for.
String spacing matters more than it sounds. If it doesn't match your neck, the outer strings sit too close to the fretboard edge or the pole pieces don't line up under the strings.
2. T or TS: FST or steel block
- T models are listed with Gotoh's FST mechanism. Gotoh describe FST as a part between the saddle and the string's ball end that keeps the strings from touching the plate, to help tuning stability when you use the arm.
- TS models are listed with a steel block and no FST.
Both use the same arm (Gotoh's A7), so T and TS has nothing to do with screw-in versus push-in arms. One wrinkle: Gotoh's series list shows the NS510T models with FST, but the NS510T-FE1 product page says it doesn't have it. If FST matters to you on a narrow-spacing bridge, check with the seller before buying.
3. The letters after the dash: saddles
- FE: steel saddles.
- BS: brass saddles.
- SF: bent sheet-steel saddles, the vintage Strat style (510T-SF1).
Lots of players describe brass as warmer and steel as brighter. That's a matter of taste and ears, not a spec, so don't expect a night-and-day change.
4. The number at the end: how it mounts
This is the one that decides whether the bridge fits.
- 1 = 2-point: the bridge pivots on two studs. On Gotoh's drawing for the 510T-FE1, the studs are 56mm apart, centre to centre.
- 2 = 6-screw: the bridge pivots on a row of six screws, like a vintage Strat. On Gotoh's drawing for the 510TS-FE2, the screws are 11.2mm apart, 56mm from first to last.
- 7 (NS510TS-FE7): a version for 7-string guitars.
Common models at a glance
| Model | Mounting | String spacing | Saddles | FST or steel block |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 510T-FE1 | 2-point | 10.8mm | Steel | FST |
| 510TS-FE1 | 2-point | 10.8mm | Steel | Steel block |
| 510T-FE2 | 6-screw | 10.8mm | Steel | FST |
| 510TS-FE2 | 6-screw | 10.8mm | Steel | Steel block |
| 510T-BS1 | 2-point | 10.8mm | Brass | FST |
| 510TS-BS2 | 6-screw | 10.8mm | Brass | Steel block |
| 510T-SF1 | 2-point | 10.8mm | Sheet steel | FST |
| NS510TS-FE1 | 2-point | 10.5mm | Steel | Steel block |
| NS510TS-FE2 | 6-screw | 10.5mm | Steel | Steel block |
| EV510T-FE | 2-point | 10.8mm | Steel | FST |
Most models come in 37mm and 42mm block heights, and many are made in left-handed versions too.
How to pick the right one
- Look at how your current bridge mounts. Two big studs at the front edge means 2-point, so you want a model ending in 1. A row of six screws means 6-screw, so you want a model ending in 2.
- Measure the mounting spacing. For 2-point, measure centre to centre between the studs. For 6-screw, measure from the first screw to the last. Compare with Gotoh's drawings (56mm on both). Don't assume a figure from your guitar's brand or model, because it varies between ranges and years.
- Measure your string spacing. Measure from the centre of the low E to the centre of the high E at the saddles. Around 52.5mm points to an NS model, around 54mm to a standard one.
- Check the block height. Measure the depth of your trem cavity and compare it with the 37mm and 42mm options, so the block doesn't hit the back cover or bottom out.
- Then choose the extras. Steel, brass or sheet saddles, and FST or steel block, are personal preference once the fit is right.
When it's a job for a luthier
A like-for-like swap with matching mounting, spacing and block height is usually a straightforward screwdriver job. Get it done professionally if:
- You're changing mounting type, for example from 6-screw to 2-point. That means filling old holes and drilling new ones for the stud inserts.
- Your mounting spacing doesn't match the Gotoh drawing.
- The block is too deep for your cavity and the cavity needs routing.
- The bridge plate doesn't sit cleanly in your pickguard's cutout. Compare the plate dimensions on Gotoh's drawing with your guard before buying.
The short version
Read the last digit first: it tells you how the bridge mounts, and that has to match your guitar. Check the prefix next for string spacing. Everything else, saddles and FST, is about feel and preference. Measure before you buy, and when in doubt, check the model's dimension drawing on Gotoh's site.